How To Repair Cast Resin
Common cold cast resin and polystone are materials that allows for a better level of details than PVC. They besides cheaper to utilise when producing small runs of products. For these reasons, these textile are frequently used for some very high-end figures that are produced in very limited quantities.
Withal, these materials accept a major downside compared to PVC in that they are much harder and thus, they suspension very hands. Subjected to mechanical stress they promptly snap when PVC would simply bend and then regain its shape.
When PVC does snap, it usually does information technology quite cleanly and can be glued back together equally it is. When CC or PS splits, on the other hand, some of the textile around the pause usually flies away into shards or powder and some of the paint often gets chipped as well.
Because of this, CC/PS figures (or statues as they're frequently called) are often in demand of repairs that are a bit more complex that the average figure.
I've recently been entrusted with fixing
for another MFC user and today I'll be describing the repair process.
These are the parts that were sent to me for repairs: Zell has 3 broken fingers, the tail of Diabolos has its tip and its "neck" broken and Irvine has his shotgun manus every bit well as his ponytail broken (that last 1 broke during aircraft despite being very carefully packed, this illustrates how breakable this material is).
First I'll be fixing Zell'southward fingers and Irvine'south paw because they are the cleanest breaks in this job.
I start by applying a very thin layer of superglue on one side of the area I want to fix.
I like liquid superglue over the gel version because information technology's easier to evenly spread and it sets faster. Here I'one thousand using a needle to precisely apply it.
If I were to put too much glue, information technology would spill from the sides when I connect the parts and make the repair all messy.
After laying the glue I re-attach the fingers. This mucilage sets very apace so I must be careful to identify the pieces correctly on the beginning shot or it could stop up misaligned. To prevent this, I've good finding the right position/angle of each finger for a few minutes earlier gluing.
Zell tin can play the piano over again but nosotros can see that some of the paint was chipped away when the figure originally bankrupt. We'll come up back to gear up this subsequently on.
Now a trickier case was Irvine'south ponytail. As yous can encounter on the picture, it contains some metal wires (copper and brass I'd say) that were supposed to prevent such damage from happening...
The break occurred in the area where the rods are parallel (where the "chapeau wire" passes the billy to the "hair wire").
This makes the repair more complicated because the copper got warped when the slice broke and the halves don't fit anymore. After gluing, it leaves an unsightly gap that will require filling which will be covered in the next part, Diabolos' tail.
The tail also has a wire at the cease of which I've already re-glued the fragments I had on hand only equally you tin can see, some of them are missing and so we'll need to fill up the void.
Filling these sort of holes can normally be done with hobby putty merely this time I wanted to endeavour a new technique I'd seen from the guys at Tested: superglue mixed with baby pulverisation.
It produces a nice cement that I tin can make thicker with more powder or runnier with more glue. I roughly fill the desired area with it (I do the same on the ponytail).
After it has set, I sand the excess until it's the right shape. If I missed a spot, I make a fleck more cement and echo.
This mix dries much harder than regular hobby putty. I think this is neat for cold cast since it somehow matches the hardness of the original material.
I don't retrieve information technology would be equally good for apply on PVC though. I anticipate that the departure in hardness would crusade the cement to come off the PVC in case of stress. Better stick to good ol' putty in that case.
Now that shapes are skilful, let's go on with the colors.
Here I'll exist working with Tamiya acrylic paints. I've readied a lot of them because information technology's very rare to observe the exact color you need right out of the jar and so I'll have to mix them to find the correct tones for each area.
In my opinion, THE most important thing to get a color mix right is lighting. Here I'm working nether powerful 5500K "daylight" low-cal bulbs, they allow me to see the colors unaltered contrary to regular 2700K "warm" bulbs that turn everything yellowish.
I need very tiny quantities and then I just mix paint on the fly with my brush, I apply it on the piece and compare with the original color next to it. If it doesn't match, I just edit the mix and try again.
I keep doing that, gradually working my fashion to the exact color.
A overnice resources on the discipline is this web log article from GSC.
Once I've got the color right, I also need to restore the shine or matte of the area. I could use tiptop coat spray cans but I'm working on very tiny areas so that would be overkill. In that location is a far greater adventure of ruining the finish of some undamaged areas so I'll get for a more than surgical approach instead.
If I demand to make an area glossier, I simply apply some Tamiya X-22 Clear (diluted). If I need to arrive flatter, I expect until the paint is half-dry out (dry out to the touch but still soft) and gently tap on it repeatedly with my finger. Each tap of my finger "breaks" the smooth a chip more and I practise that until I'thou satisfied with the effect.
Now permit's get back to the "neck" of the tail for a scrap. As we saw previously, there is a wire running down the length of the tail which means that the tail was cracked only the parts were still connected by the wire.
And only like in the case of the ponytail, the wire was warped and prevented me from aligning the parts correctly when gluing. I idea that the pigment fixes would somehow cover-up the problem but nope, it notwithstanding sticks out like a sore pollex.
So with the owner's consent I've proceeded to re-sculpt this area using the glue/pulverisation technique once over again. The departure this time is that I'm also sanding some original bits that were not broken in the first place. I'm altering the shape of the whole area around the damage in order to give it a more than natural look.
Here'southward the result. Even I tin now hardly tell where the crack was ^^
And that'due south it.
This tutorial covered some of the most common challenges involved when fixing cold bandage or polystone figures (and some of it can also be practical to PVC).
If you've ever had to do this sort of fixes and have used other techniques, I'd beloved to hear about them.
How To Repair Cast Resin,
Source: https://myfigurecollection.net/blog/34831
Posted by: crumpleryouscinfecto.blogspot.com
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